Japan

"Japanese only. Tokyo. 04/04. A hazy sensation came upon me as soon as I got across customs when I arrived in Japan. This impression gradually became more distinct. I now surmise, with growing clarity, that my relations with Japanese people will primarily be based on incomprehension. Shinjuku by night is not Pigalle. In no time at all, I lost my Pachinko bet. Between two games arcades sputtering like machine guns, there are a few restaurants, calm inside, but above all, MacDonalds eateries.

Seedy joints are piled up on top of one another right up to the eighth floor. 2nd floor: young girls in bloom; 3rd floor: sexual massages; 4th floor: crazy female students, etc. The ads sparkle as much as they’re suggestive, but they scream out in Japanese and I don’t understand exactly what they’re on about. I’ll have to come back with someone. When a Japanese tout spots me, he acts as if I don’t exist. It’s been said that this is because of the bad reputation of the American GIs, but above all, the Russian sailors. Much better to have fun among Japanese only."

Extract from Carnets de voyage, 2000, Éditions Gallimard